TheatreLand

So yesterday was a cold and dreary day here in London. It was pouring and only about 50 degrees, if that. I had a pretty down day, opting to take it easy. It was, after all, a Bank Holiday! So, I ran a few errands and stocked up on fun Brit bits and bobs to tote back with me! I got a jar of Sticky toffee and I hope that it is considered a solid. I don't want to have to check my bag! The security guards are going to think I'm mad! Sticky Toffee, Jaffa Cakes, and Build-a-Bear regalia! Good times! So, after grabbing an early dinner, I headed back to the hostel. My roommates and I got into an interesting discussion and we spent a couple of hours debating American politics, including the Supreme Court and the threat of prayer in school and the ban on abortion. I spoke about the integrity of the constitution and 1 girl (a 20 year old American christian) said I was being very reductionist. I said yes, I was. I had to be! In a room full of people, you will not find even 2 people who wholly agree on every last thing. It boils down to the constitution. You have to remove everything else. The constitution is the bottom line. And if prayer in school is instituted, it is an attack on the very foundation of the United States. The United States will no longer exist as it was conceived. And what then?? What will be next? Once the 1st amendment is shattered, the country is exposed and vulnerable. It will no longer be a secular or free society. Great men and women have given their lives to fight for these very basic rights and freedoms. They are probably rolling over in their graves! The US has veered so far away from what is was and what is was supposed to become. It was be a dark day in history and the beginning of the end. What's upsetting is that the US has the opportunity to be something truly amazing. Unfortunately, too many people are wrapped up in their own "morals" and their own demand that everyone assimilate to what they feel is right to realize what they will be giving up. To live in a free society, you must have a certain amount of tolerance. You may not like something, in fact you may loathe it, but you must recognize and accept that they are free to do as they like - just as you are. It is part and parcel of living in a free country. If rights continue to be stripped away, the US will succeed where the Nazis and the Fascists failed. The passage by Martin Niemoller, a Protestant minister and Dachau survivor, sums up the dangers of apathy and self righteousness:

First they came for the communists, and I did not speak out--
because I was not a communist;
Then they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out--
because I was not a socialist;
Then they came for the trade unionists, and I did not speak out--
because I was not a trade unionist;
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out--
because I was not a Jew;
Then they came for me--
and there was no one left to speak out for me.

Anyway, the girls said they never thought about it that way. All I can hope for is that they start to think beyond their upbringing and their bibles. And they enlightened me, as well! I had no idea that Obama has a huge following in the collegiate world! That's interesting! They say that he is "young and hip." Ok.... well, he's not my first choice, but I'll take him. Anyone other than a white, christian republican male will do. That night, deep in thought, I fell asleep loving the view over South Kensington that my room affords me.

Today has been a good day, so far! I woke up early and realized that it is my last full day in Europe. So, my mood has been somewhat diminished. I headed out early and boarded the tube to Leicester Square. I had to go to British Actors Equity!! I sat down with the Membership Manager and hashed out all the details of my move to London! I got the London Actor's "Bible" which lists everything you need to know about a performer's life in the UK! He also directed me to the website that I need to get myself on. It's similar to Actor's Access and Now Casting, except you are only allowed to post your CV if you are union and have professional credits! So, it truly is an online database for Casting Directors and so forth! AA and NC are overloaded with anyone and everyone who claims to be an "actor." We chatted for awhile about the UK industry and life in London! It was great! So, glowing from the prospect of living and working in London, I headed over to Leicester Square and had a quick lunch.

And that brings to right now. Sitting in an internet cafe on Charing Cross Rd., writing my last blog in Europe. Wow.... I don't want to leave, really. But I'm so sick of hostels, that I'm looking forward to my own bed. So, I have really intense mixed feelings. And I don't know what I'm going to do.... I have a lot to think about. And some big decisions to make. If I move to London, my life and career take a very different path. Plus, it will take at least 6 months, because of my cats. Hmmm.... it's not something I can jump into lightly. I'm planning on continuing this blog even after I get back, so I'll let you know. I'm also going to post a blog summarizing my time in Europe. The good, the bad, and the ugly.

Well, my time is almost up. I'll see you on the other side of the pond... tomorrow. Yikes.....

Due to a Person Under a Train....

Equus was absolutely amazing! It is one of the best plays I have seen! Having read the play many times, I knew what to expect and the production still left me with goosebumps! Daniel Radcliff is a fantastic actor and after 5 minutes or so, you completely forgot that he was Harry Potter. He became Alan Strang. The set design was incredible - stark and effective. And the dancers who portrayed the horses were unbelievable. It was a powerful, moving production and was worth every last pence, plus some! Wow.... I am quite sure that I will be talking about this show for a while, so I'll fill you in on all the details when I get back! I think I was the only American in the Orchestra... perhaps the theatre. I suppose they were all off seeing Mary Poppins or the Lion King or some other equally vapid happy musical. Not to diminish musicals. They have their place and I enjoy them once in awhile, but plays offer so much more. I love theatre! And I love London's Theatre Land! I can honestly see myself living here quite happily!

Anyway, the evening was completely ruined by news that my mother shared with me via telephone. If you read the blog this morning, before I deleted it, then you know what I am speaking of. If not, email me and I'll fill you in. Suffice to say that I am not a happy camper. But I've been told no bitter diatribes or venomous spitting allowed. Not on my blog anyway. So, I spent the evening pouting and chatting with this guy about ceramics and the evolution of nanotechnology with particular emphasis on energy application. Good times....

I woke this morning to heavy rain. Seemed appropriate, given my mood. So, I pulled out my jacket and rain gear. No rain was going to keep me from the markets! By god, this is England! They don't stop for rain! So, my first stop was Petticoat Lane! I spend a couple of hours wandering the stalls and found some great jewellry! I bargained with this round Cockney gent and walked away with 4 new necklaces that I love! They are very typically me...

Soaking wet and in dire need of a Loo, I popped into a little place near the Tube station and had an early lunch. Then I hopped on the train headed for Camden Town! Unfortunately, someone had thrown themselves in front of the train at the Camden Town tube station and they were drug under the train. So, while on board the Northern Line train headed straight for that stop, we were informed that we would not be stopping at that particular station. Damn. So, after an intersting bus adventure and a good walk in the rain, I finally found myself in the heart of Camden! I love Camden! It is a bit grungey - but in a good way! It is full of funky shops and cheap eats!! Colorful people and TONS of great shopping, including a bunch of market all within a few blocks of each other!!! Oh, it was great!! I bought some fabulous toe socks and some rainbow trainers! I had a blast just wandering through the tightly packed stalls, enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells of Camden on the Weekend. On the way back to the the distant tube station (Camden Town station was still closed), I popped into the 99p Store and came across a bunch of tack from Little Britain which is a fabulously sick and twisted sketch comedy show on BBC! I highly recommend it - it's shown in the US on BBC AMerica!! So, I bought a few things, then headed into the tube. A dull British voice greeted me with: "Due to a person under a train in Camden Town, please expect severe delays." Blunt and very polite. It was amusing. By the time I made my back to South Kensinton, the rain has eased up a bit. So I think I will visit Nando again.... I love his pitas!!

I'm not sure what I'll be doing tomorrow... I'll let you know when I know....

The Boy Wizard and Build-A-Bear

I finally made it to London! As I stepped out into Waterloo station, I felt at ease. I was back in my favorite city! I let a sigh of relief slip and I made my way to the Tube. I emerged in South Kensington, where I would be spending my final week in Europe. Pushing thoughts of leaving from my mind, I made my way to my temporary home and settled in. I was exhausted, the the evening was spent relaxing and running mild errands before I collapsed into bed.

The next morning, I was up and out early. I walked from South Kensington over to Regent's St. on a quest to find Build-A-Bear. It was attached to the famous Hamley's Toy store! Wow! That is a cool toy store! I made my way upstairs to the Workshop and set about finding the perfect outfits for my niece and nephew! I seriously considered buying them the UK Bear, but decided against it - though I may return before I leave! After about an hour of hemming and hawing, I had decided on a Palace Guard outfit for my nephew and a Queen Victoria outfit for my Niece. Of course, no British bear is complete without a Union Jack flag strapped to their arm!! The manager loved my "enthusiasm" - really guarded sarcasm - and offered me a job! When I get back to London, I'm to see her straight away! Hey, if I'm ever hard up, at least I know I can get something! She gave me 2 notebooks and 2 pins for the kids as a bonus! They will love it!

So, £26 lighter, I headed out and shopped my way down Regent's St. I stopped into Virgin to see if they had any new Jamie Cullum releases, but apparently there has been a snag with his new album. Damn. It was worth a try. I made my way back out to Knightsbridge and walked back towards Kensington. I stopped at Piccadilly Market and had a wonderful conversation with a woman about Immigration, tea, and London! I love walking in London. The smell of Jasmine seems to follow me. I thought about returning to Kew Gardens before I leave. Before long, I was standing in front of Harrod's. I decided to pop in and pick up some tea. I was hung up in cosmetics, testing new products and chatting with the girls. I eventually made it the teas and spent a ridiculous amount of time deciding what I wanted. I finally settled on 3 boxes of various blends. In case you are wondering, Harrod's is renowned for their tea. By the time I left Harrod's, it was getting late. I stopped and had a late dinner then caught up with some friends and email.

The next morning, I headed over to the Victoria & Albert Museum. It was fascinating! My favorite areas were the cast courts and the photography! The Indian Textiles were incredible! My next stop was the Museum of Natural History. Set in an amazing Gothic building, the museum is interesting. Though it is more family oriented, so I only stayed about an hour. I had a quick lunch and went about gathering information regarding immigration. After getting what I needed, I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring South Kensington! I popped into every store that caught my fancy, wandered down narrow side streets, and thoroughly enjoyed people watching! As I was on my way back, I came across this restaurant called Nando's. I decided it looked interesting and had a nice dinner! It was just a casual place that served Portuguese chicken pitas and such! It was hot and spicy and I loved it! I will definitely go back! With my belly full, I tucked in for an early bedtime.

Saturday brought a cool and cloudy day, which I actually didn't mind. I did some silly little chores, then I headed out to Leicester Square. My goal was to do everything possible to get tickets for Equus - the one play that I really wanted to see while I am in London. So, after standing in several lines for the better part of an hour, I did walk away with Orchestra Stall center seats - 10th row! I paid £37 for them, but at least I get to see the show!! All other tickets were sold out. The show starts in less than an hour and I can't wait! Even if this is the only show I see while I'm here, it's worth it. This is a Bank Holiday weekend, so everything is a bit crowded and Londoners have jumped ship for the beaches of Brighton and Cornwall. Monday will be a pain in the ass, since everything will be closed. But, perhaps that will be the day I go to Kew Gardens. I'll remember to bring a loaf of bread for the ducks and birds.

I suppose you are wondering what I found out regarding UK Immigration. Well, I need to get my Artist's Visa first. That gives me the right to work for 2 years as an actor in the UK. Once I have the visa, I need to go to British Actor's Equity with my visa, my US Union Cards, and my contracts and they will process my membership ASAP since I'm already eligible. Once I have all of that, I need to contact the agencies who are interested in signing me. So far, only 3 are interested and 1 is American. They all require a visa and BAE membership before they can proceed. So, once I get set up as an actor, then I can go out and find a regular job to tide me over. This is obviously the condensed version, but you should have a general idea.

Well, I'm off to the show! I'll write my thoughts on the show tomorrow! And no worries, I'll let you know what Harry Potter's penis looked like! I'll be close enough! I love London's TheatreLand!

Treno di Notte

So my final day in Rome was long. The minutes picked away the hours at an agonizing pace. I woke early to find creepy old man packing to leave. Figures. So, I climb out of the hateful coffin like bunk bed and stumbled through the thick, humid air. I slowly got myself ready for the day, packed my bags, and headed down to breakfast. After eating yet another chocolate filled Brioche (wonderful the first couple of morning, but the sickeningly sweet filling got old) and about 4 cups of espresso, I dropped off my clothes at the laundry center and wandered through the markets. They suck in Rome! Especially compared to Florence. Oh well. I headed to the store to buy those coconut cookies I love and grabbed lunch while I was at it. I visited my New J ersey friend at his family store and stocked up on cigs. After picking up my finished laundry, I found my way back to the hostel and repacked my bags in preparation for the big departure. The rest of the afternoon was spent catching up with other travelers, researching which shows I wanted to see in London, and so orth. I was terribly bored and ready to go! Impatience got the best of me, and I decided to head out to the train statin early. Burdened with my pack and bag, I found a quiet place to grab a bite to eat and headed out to the platform.

Carriage after carriage, the run down Treno di Notte stretched on for a mile. I walked or what seemed like an eternity, attempting to find my carriage. It was the last one. As I approached the train, the conductor spied me. He checked my ticket and introduced himslef. His name was Roberto and he was wearing large diamonte studs - one in each ear. I immediately thought of the Adam Sandler film Waterboy and had to swallow a giggle. His english was broken, but he managed to inform me (well, my breasts really) that the cabin was towards the back. As he turned to assist an elderly french woman, I checked my watch. I had just enough time to smoke. So, I set down my bags and lit a ciggie. As I smoked, looked around the platform. The sun was setting and it was casting a soft light that caught the dust in a sort of ethereal glow. The busy shadowy figures created an appealing contrast and I enjoyed the moment. The train whistle shattered my thought. I snuffed out the cig and boarded the train.

I had bought an upgraded seat in a "Confort Cabin." Obiously, Italians have a very different idea of what constitutes comfort. The cabin was small and confining. There was a woman already sitting there. She barely acknowledged me as I settled into the seat across from her. Lovely. 14 hours with a bitch. As the train pulled away, we were still alone and I hoped that it would be just the 2 of us. I couldn't imagine 4 people in this cramped cage. The train gained speed and Rome dropped away, giving the countryside priority. The sun hung low casting shadows through the dim cabin. I leaned my head against the thick plastic window and watched Lazio melt into Tuscany. The soft rolling hills, sunburned and ablaze in a fiery palate, lulled me. I closed my eyes and let the Italian countryside slip away.

As we pulled into Firenze, we were nformed that 2 more passangers would be boarding. Damn. As the young couple entered the cabin, their eyes were locked on me. They nodded, knowing that this chubby girl before them was an American, and said "Bon jour." As it turns out, the woman who I'd been sittng with was also French. They were all from Paris and returning home. I was the odd man out and they made no real attempts to incorporate me into their French club. As they closed the cabin door, the smell hit me hard. I hung my head and willed myelf to ignore it. Did I have any Oust spray left, I wondered as we pulled the bunks out. As ew all climbed to our perches, they argued about whether or not to lock the door. They opted not to. The women were concerned about having to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night. Whatever. I read or a bit, but the rocking of the train was hypnotic and before I knew it, I was alseep.

Finding it difficult to breathe, I awoke in a sweat some time later. The train was still and eerily quiet. The cabin was stiffling hot - the A/C turns of when the train is not running. We were at the border and the French guards were taking their time. The heat was unbearable and I wanted a smoke, so I went in search of Roberto. He directed me to the bathroom. As he informed me to blow the smoke out the window, he winked and studied my body in a way that made my skin crawl. I smiled and thanked him, then shut and locked the door. I felt like I was back in high school. Smokin' in the girls room. I got out of school suspension one time because I was caught smoking in the girls room. Briefly, I wondered what the French military might do to an American caught in the act of violating their train rules. I shrugged the thought away, and as I finished my cigarette, the train began to roll. I made my way back to the cabin and carefully climbed onto my bunk. Sleep came readily, and I fitfully rested through the night.

I woke early, the first in my cabin. I quietly gathered my toiletries and tiptoed out into the passageway. I went to the bathroom. It reeked of piss and BO. I brushed my teeth and hair, frowning at my haggard face in the sheet mirror. I was tired. And I was ready for a morning smoke. I passed Roberto and he ushered me to the side and allowed me to light up. We started chatting, lightly, in a manner reserved for people who really don't share a language. He asked if I had a boyfried. Uh oh. Slightly panicked, I smoked faster and lied. Yes, I do have a boyfriend. In fact, we are meeting up in London. An elaborate version of my standard, but I hoped he understood. And he did... he simply did not care. He grabbed my face and before I knew what was happening, he planted his full lips on mine. I pulled away, feeling trapped and looking for the exits as he set about convincng me that my boyfriend didn't matter. I should stay with him and have sex. A brief flashback to the mexican in the laundry room hit me like a ton of bricks and images of all the men before him flipped through my brain like flash cards. As Roger's face smashed into my conscience thought, I chucked the cigarette and made a very diplomatic exit, the breath catching in my throat, threatening to choke me. To gag me. Like before. I scurried back to the cabin, shut the door, and did not leave until we pulled into Gare du Bercy in Paris. I rabbed my passport without looking and hurried out the door.

The Paris air was cool, but not cold. It felt nice on my flushed face. After a quick glance over my shoulder, I rushed to the Metro station. I had to get away. Run. I hate Italian men. I made it to Gare du Nord without too much difficuly. And for the next couple of hours, I pouted and dodged the Gypsies with a new found alacrity. I ha lunch at a place just outside the terminal and ended up having quite a conversation with 2 American boys. Polotics, the state of the Union, civil liberties and the rights of women, where is America headed? The discussion perked me up and I headed to the Eurostar terminal with a lighter step. After all, I was headed back to London - my favorite city!

As the train hurtled itself under the english chanel, a sadness swept through me. I would be leaving soon. This was my last train ride. As I stared out into the pitch blackness, my thoughts drifted to all that I had seen and expereinced. All that I ad learned and unlearned. And how some things will never, ever go away.

I am.... Batman!

Ok.... so the past couple of days have been interesting. When I went back to my room Sat. night, there was this disgusting old man was sprawled out on a bunk wearing nothing but stained, translucent tighty whiteys!! Oooooohhhh! I so did not need to see that!!!! So, between the heat (they still have not fixed the damn A/C), the bugs, and the dirty old man.... well, I had a restless night.

The next morning, the bites were making me miserable so I actually headed out to the pharmacy to see out some professional assistance. Italian pharmacies are amusing! I did get a tube of cream and headed back to the hostel to slather myself up. I ran into Kate and her friend. We decided to grab dinner at this diner Kate had visited a few nights earlier. So, we hung out drinking wine and eating mediocre italian food. I had the Penne with 4 cheese sauce. It was better tha the Gnocchi. §After dinner, I hung out with this British guy and his Argentinian friend - they both live in Madrid, Spain. It was fun! They are fabulously insane! I love Argentinians! But the cream was wearing off and my patience wearing thin, so I opted for an early bedtime. When I went up to my room, the creepy old man was fully clothed. Thank God...

Today has been very low key. I've made lots of phone calls and read about 500 pages in this book I picked up in Florence. I'll finish it tonight. I woke up with more bites - all the windows in the hostel are wide ope and lacking any screens, so I'm like a buffet. Oy happy happy joy joy. So, I did not really feel like doing much of anything at all. It was so hot that the sweat and oppressive heat were irritating me and my bites. Thankfully, I leave tomorrow and I can't wait to be back in London!! I'm going to go see shows and visit all the markets!! It will be great!! Oh, and my first Diet Coke in quite some time!! Yeaaaa!!! I love London!! So, tomorrow will be errand day! I want to pick up a box of these yummy coconut cookies and do laundry! Then I catch the train around 6pm!! I arrive in Paris i n the morning and have a couple of hours to grab a bite to eat and collect my thoughts before hopping on the Eurostar! I will be back in London by early afternoon!

Only 1 more day in Rome!! Although, I will miss the bats!! Italy is host to the most massive bat population I have ever come across! Starting around 4 -5 pm, the sky is filled with them!! It's like a scene from Pitch Black!! I keep expecting Vin Deisel to come running around the corner to heroically battle the monsties!! I love bats and to see them fill the sky is an impressive sight! And there are 2 distinct kinds - 1 is small with a short wing span and the other is more like fruit bats! Very large wingspan! It's cool!

Any-hoo.... I'm off to grab dinner. My next post will be from London!!

The Fury of Rome

So, last night was a nice, relaxing, and enjoyable evening! I ended up running into this girl Kate who I met at the hostel! We decided to hang out and grab dinner - of course, it was not before we got in trouble with the manager of the hostel! It's a really long story, and quite funny actually, so if you want to hear about it, just ask me about the "Italian Game!!"

It was about 5pm, so it was sort of early, but not really! When we went into the hostel to get the discount card, they informed us that the restaurant didn't open until 6 pm. Shit. Well, we were hot and tired and feeling incrediably lazy. So, we decided to go across the street and have an espresso and chat for an hour. When the impressively long hour was up, we wandered around the corner and found a seat. We laughed about how lazy we were being, but figured what the hell??!!? So, we had a lovely 4 hour meal.... 5 if you include the hour for espresso! We started off with the breadsticks and fresh bruschetta with a few glasses of wine. Then I had the Gnocchi with Bolognese Sauce. It was ok.... actually I was a bit disappointed. But we decided to have dessert and a few more glasses of wine. We both ordered Tiramisu and it was fabulous!! So, that made up for the gnocchi. We finished off the meal with a strong, sweet apertif. It was great! We staggered back to the hostel and went to bed!

The next morning, we decided to go to the Vatican Museum together! I spent the morning lazing around and researching Bed Bugs (yea.... I know). We met up around 12:30 and caught the metro to Vatican City. When we arrived, the line wasn't too bad and we sped through it in about 20 minutes! We wandered through the museum, and slowly made our way to the Sistine Chapel. It was interesting and I'm certainly glad I went, although it was not quite what I expected. Of course, what ever is??!!? Anyway, the guards in the Sistine Chapel are crazy! They chant thier orders .....Nooooo - Pho - toooooos. Quiii-eeeeet Plllleeeeaaaase! And they would clap at people like they are children! It was very bizarre in ana amusing sort of way! Well, after we were done and at the point of making jokes, we felt it was time to leave. So, after seeing the Pinocateca Gallery, we caught the Metro back to Termini. We were starving and in dire need of sustanance! Neither of had eaten lunch! Ooops! Oh well! We grabbed a quick bite and then headed back to the hostel.

So, here we are! I must say that watching Jesus suffer and die repeatedly is quite exhausting! Dead Jesus, bloody Jesus, crucified Jesus, little baby Jesus! They even had a van Gogh Painting of Jesus??!!!?? I'm tired of Jesus paintings! I never want to see another christian painting again!! Oy vey! In all honesty, I'm tired of museums! I've been to so many places that have so many world class museums, that I'm a little burnt out! And Rome doesn't help the situation, either! Kate and I decided last night that Rome is a very angry city! And since I'm super sensitive to my environment, it's no wonder I'm not happy! We witnessed so many acts of pure rage during our 5 hour coffee break and dinner, that is was ridiculous! The Fury of Rome..... perhaps it's the heat. Who knows?? I mean Italians are already very passionate people, but when that passion turns dark.... watch out! It's a good thing they don't have guns over here.

Anyway... I'm rambling! I'm going out with Kate to get Gelato in a little while! That should be fun! I have no idea what I'm going to be doing tomorrow! My plans keep changing!! I'll let you know tomorrow!!

Aye Dios Mio!

Last night was amusing! now that all the Study abroad programs have let out, there are A LOT of Americans running about in the big bad European cities generally making asses out of themselves. And the ones at the hostel here in Rome are no exception. I went outside to smoke a ciggie and was met by 2 very young American boys. They were both drunk and attempting to drink more, but were having great difficulties opening there bottles. Oh, they were obnoxious but at least it was entertaining. A few girls I had met the previous evening wandered up and we started chatting. Of course the boys joined in and they conversation quickly turned south. Way south!! LOL! Suffice it to say that the Roman Catholic institution would not have approved!

This morning, I drug my ass and took forever to head out. I tried to get a refund for the hostel so that I could leave early, but they wouldn't budge. So, I changed my Eurostar departure so that I only have to spend a couple of hours in Paris and figured out what the hell I'm going to do over the next 4 days! I have decided that tomorrow, I'm going to go to Anzio. It's a small town on the Pontine coast just south of Rome. It has a lot of WWII sites and memorials, including the American cemetery. It's supposed to be nice. Then, on Monday, I'm going to go to Ostia Antica to explore the ruins. Apparently, it's more interesting than Pompeii and much less crowded. Not to mention closer! Then, on Tuesday (my final day in Rome), I will brave the Vatican once again to visit the Museo Vaticani and the Sistine Chapel. After all of that, I'm off to the UK!

After I figured out the next few days, I went and grabbed a bite to eat and made my way to the Spanish Steps & the Piazza Spagna. It was okay, but nothing special! I don't know why people think they are so great??!! In all honesty, they weren't all that attractive. Rome isn't attractive. I find Florence and the surrounding Tuscan countryside much more artistically appealing. I'm not alone, of course. Many artists and writers of all types have flocked to Tuscany.

Anyway, after pushing my way through the throngs of tourists, thieves, and beggars I was hot and annoyed. So, I hopped on the Metro and went back towards the hostel. I am in the middle o a siesta. I wish I could take a nap, but you know I can't sleep during the day!! Arg! I'll be heading out pretty soon. I'm going to get dinner at a local Trattoria. I am hoping that the rest of the evening is spent relaxing. I haven't been sleeping too well because the heat and my roommates. But we will see!

Well I'm off in search of homemade Gnocchi!

Worship of False Idols

Ok... let me start off by saying that Italians are completely insane! Generally, it is in an amusing and endearing sort of way. Romans are a bit less amusing, though. More crazy. I think it's the heat and humidity. It is intense and the inevitable chafing is bound to bunch anyone's panties.... even a Mediterranean. Rome is complete chaos and exhaustion comes rapidly. Spending the day dodging scooters, rabid drivers, thieves, and peddlers in the blazing heat certainly takes its toll. I hate humidity and I am very tired from 2 months of travel. So, I think I would have enjoyed the city a bit more if I had come at the beginning of my trip. Although, to be perfectly honest, I simply do not understand why Americans like Italy so much?? It's filthy, hot, crowded, expensive, and overrun with North African peddlers and Gypsy thieves! Obviously, it is not my favorite country. I would have much preferred Spain and I do regret choosing Italy over Spain and Morocco. Oh well.... c'est la vie. And another lesson learned! Wow.... I've certainly learned a lot in 2 months....

Any-hoo.... today has been exhausting and somewhat intense! This morning, I headed over to the Cappuccin Crypt. I walked through the dark and cool tunnel and was actually quite disturbed! The bones are older and much more in your face than in Kutna Hora! And, they have children's skeletons as well, including a child's skeleton hanging from the ceiling that is arranged as the Grim Reaper. Oy... they also have lots of skeletons dressed in monk's robes. Very creepy. So, still a bit distressed, I wandered over to the Piazza Repubblica and had a bite to eat before boarding the metro. I was on my way to the Vatican. Even though I am not Christian, I was looking forward to standing in the Sistine Chapel!

After a very hot and sweaty ride, I got to the walls of Vatican City and walked... and walked.... and walked! I was looking for the entrance, and the lines!! But there was none!! After asking several people, I found out the door marked exit was also the entrance. Shit. Their was no one there?! So, I walked back, fearing that the museum was closed, and of course, it was. The one day this month that it was randomly closed was today. Well, I could still go to St. Peter's Sq and the Basilica. So, I headed back in the direction I came and finally came to the archway leading directly into the square. As I stepped through, I marveled at the incredible colonnade. I stepped out into the massive square and took stock of my surrounding. For some reason, I was disturbed. And I walked further into the square, I actually became angry. I'm not really entirely sure why.... pensively, I headed over to the entrance to the Basilica. As I waited in line, I took a good look at everything in the square. There was a banner with the Pope posing for a picture for some special something. Isn't vanity a sin? And greed? As I entered the Papal tombs, this feeling of unrest simply grew. As I briskly walked through, I looked at all the people. It was sad and rather frightening. As I came up to Pope John Paul II tomb, I slowed nearly to a stop. People had fallen to their knees and were deep in prayer. They had lit candles and left flowers and other offerings, including money. As I walked past them in slow motion, I wanted to yank them up off of their feet and shake them. I wanted to scream "The Pope is not God! He is a man !! Don't you realize how far away from God you really are???" Since you can be thrown in jail for speaking ill of the precious Pope, I kept my mouth shut. Although, I could not help shaking my head as I passed. Even that caused the numerous guards to go on alert. They watched me very closely until I had left the tomb. But, to put it in Christian terms, they are essentially worshiping a false idol - the Pope - and that is a big no-no according to the bible!

With my anger mixing with sadness, I went into the Basilica. As I walked in, it was the coldest place I have ever been. God certainly doesn't live there. Although it was gorgeous and an incredible architectural gem, it was spiritually dead. The entire Basilica was created to outdo everyone else, not really as a place of worship. Antithetical to what they preach. Whatever happened to Chastity, Poverty, and Obedience. Or does that only apply to those they rule? I was disgusted, and more than ready to leave. With my heart heavy, I slowly made my way back to the Metro, thinking of how many millions of innocent lives have been cut short in the name of this ridiculousness. It's sad, really. Christians, Catholics in particular, have no idea. They are completely clueless, for the most part, and prefer to be as such. It's a spiritual cop out and equivalent to taking the "Easy Road." They don't realize how far from the truth, and consequently God, they really are. And it is not only Christians. It's most organised religion. They offer "answers," when a true spiritual journey should never provide "answers." you should always find more questions. That's the journey. That is how your soul grows. Religion is so dangerous. Is this really what God would want? And why do people want to believe in a God like that?

OK.... enough of my spiritual diatribe! By the time I got back to the hostel, I was hot, soaked in sweat, and exhausted. This evening has been spent simply relaxing and reflecting. I may go see a movie tonight with this girl I met, but I'm not sure! Tomorrow, I think that I'm going out to Ostia Antic, but I'm not sure yet. I'll let you know tomorrow where I ended up going! I have to run.... I think I deserve a Gelato!

All Roads Lead to Rome.....

I'm in Roma!! Wow... this is my last major city before heading back to the UK!! I can't believe it!! This adventure has flown by! It actually makes me a little sad to think that in less than a month, I'll be returning to the US. Even though some things have really sucked, this has been amazing! I've experienced and seen so much!!!! Going back will be difficult....

Anyway, I got on a train headed for Rome around 12pm. It only takes 1 1/2 hours and since this was the Italian Eurostar, the trains were nicer though still packed! I ended up sitting next to 2 americans who had been studying in Greece and Italy. We chatted about art and culture before the conversation drifted to politics, the economy, and the future of America. After discussing American History, we decided that the current fight in America is for freedom from religion and conservative oppression. It was a fabulous train ride to say the least. I love conversation like that, especially over a glass of red wine.

So, the train pulled into Roma Termini about 2pm - yes, it was late. I found the street that I needed without any hassle and walked towards the hostel. Damn.... Rome is filthy. And as I continued to walk, it simply got dirtier and seedier. Yikes. this isn't good. I finally find the hostel and it is in the worst possible area. Think South Bronx or Bed Sty. Tentaively, I ring the bell. The door buzzes and I walk up the stairs. I'm greeted by these 2 Italian girls who spoke little English and were missing teeth. The few teeth they had left were stained dark brown or even black in some places. Oh dear. So, they were full (thank god) and they sent me to their other hostel. This one was in a better area and was cleaner, but it was still cramped! I mean sleeping right on top of one another. Well, that simply will not do! I dumped my bags and went on a quest to find a decent place to stay! I eventually found myself at a nice hostel and I'm only paying a few Euros more. Satisfied, I went the restaurant around the corner. I was starving! I had a wonderful dinner! I had a 1/4 liter of delicious red wine, breadsticks, fresh bruschetta, a huge bowl of Fettuccine Alfredo, and a fabulous Apertif.... for 10 Euros!! You can't beat that!! Especially when the pasta was fresh and made from scratch!! Oh, it was wonderful!

With my belly full and warm from the sweet apertif, I slowly made my way to the crappy hostel. When I got there, my roommates had returned. They were from Oregon and we had a great time discussing everything under the sun. Of course, the conversation eventually came to the impending primaries and Hillary Clinton. We even discussed abortion and woman's issues! I loved it!! this was the 2nd time in one day that I had an intellectual conversation!! It the hostel seem a little better.....

The next morning, I woke fairly early. It was terribly hot and there was no A/C. I got dressed and packed pretty quickly, and went out into the office to get "breakfast." It was awful! Fake OJ and this strange stale cake thing??? I don't really care what is was, because it sucked. I have no desire to repeat the experience. After choking it down, I grabbed my bags and booked. I got to the other hostel in record time, dumped my bags, and hit the town! Wow, Rome is filthy and very crowded! Not just with tourists, but with Romans, as well!! The traffic is horrific! I'd compare it to LA!! The scooters and motorcyles are everywhere and are driven by psychotic Italians hell bent on death and destruction! To make matters worse, there are very few pedestrian lights! If you want to cross the street, you simply walk out into traffic and hope they stop. They are supposed to.... in theory. They usually simply go around you. It feels like I'm stuck in a bizarre Frogger game.

Any-hoo.... my first stop was the National Mseum and the Baths of Diocletian. Very interesting! It's amazing to stand in front of a sculpture that was created nearly 4000 years ago!! After wandering the grounds, I headed to the Piazza della Republica. A few Frogger leaps and I was on my way to Trevi Fountain!! I worked my way through the narrow alleys and found myself in front of the gorgeous fountain! It really is a wonderful sight! I threw in 4 coins, just in case!!

After making my wishes, I walked over to the Forum! Wow!! It's pretty incredible!! It must have a wonder! After exploring the ruins, I headed down Via del Fori Imperiali. The Colloseum loomed ahead! It was incredible! I decided that I would brave the line and check out the interior. As I rounded the corner, I saw that there were a bunch of people up on the lookout shouting and blowing whistles and chanting! I figured it was simply a school group or something. I didn't pay it any attention and got in line. After about 30 minutes, the line had not moved and neither had all those people. I asked someone what they were saying. The chant was "Occupado Tutto - No Tourist" - which means, loosely translated, that they had fully occupied the Colleseum so no tourists could enter! They were demanding that 1 million affordable houses be built in Rome. OK.... now everyone who knows me knows that I am a staunch supporter of affordable housing and the general right to protest without fear. But this was ridiculous! they should have chained themselves to the Arc or something!! Anyway, the police and the news crews finally arrived and they CLOSED the Colloseum. They pulled out the few non - protesting people and SHUT THE GATES!! I thought there was going to be major drama, so obviously I hung around as did most people! But, the people left peacefully. As they filed out, it had be 500 of them!! Wow! Lots of them were hiding their face from the news cameras and photographers. Stupid! If you are going to protest, do so proudly! Well, after they got them all out, they reopened the Colloseum and I went in!! Coooooool! Worth it!! I loved wandering through the same passageways that Gladiators took on their way to battle!

So, after the excitement, I wandered over to the Pantheon. It was cool, but I suspect it was MUCH better when it was a Pagan Temple. The Christians came along and destroyed it by pulling out all of the original pagan statues and replacing everything with christian ones. Stupid. But the temple itself was very cool! Afterwards, I headed over to Piazza Navona and checked out Bernini's wonderful work!! At this point, I was completely exhausted and my feet were killing me!! So, I walked.... hobbled.... my way back to the hostel.

Whew! I've had a very busy day and it's only 8 pm!! I dropped off my laundry so in a few minutes, I will ahve clean clothes!! hooray!!! Rome is ridiculously hot and dirty, so I will do it again on my last day! I want to have clean clothes for London!! It is so weird to think that I'll be back in London in 6 days!! I'm very excited about heading back to London, but I'm also a little sad. It means that my adventure is coming to a rapid end. Hmmmmmm..... what to do....

Any-hoo, I go to the Vatican tomorrow! I'm going to stand in the Sistene Chapel! I also want to go into the catacombs, crypts, and tombs! It's supposed to be very cool! I'm not sure what I'm doing on Friday, but I will let you know tomorrow! Well, I'm off to rescue my laundry!

In the Ghettoooooooo

So, yesterday was a pretty interesting day! I spend a bit of time in the morning updating everything and I even uploaded some pics! So, check my Myspace page, if you are interested!!

After I grabbed a quick lunch, I headed over to the train station and boarded a train headed West! I was going to Pisa! Everyone kept saying that there really isn't anything to see, except the Leaning Tower and the Duomo! Well, I was to find out for myself in about an hour! When I got on the train, I looked around. Wow, this was a ghetto train! It was filthy, hot, and looked about 50 years old! So, this is the Italian trains that I've heard so much about! Oh well! I took a seat and as the departure grew nearer, the train filled up. By the time the train pulled away from the station, it was packed! There were even people standing. Damn. And it was sooooo hot!! I was sweating buckets, even with all the windows open! So, a very long hour later, I rushed off the train and out into Pisa. Wow.... what a shithole! The buildings were decaying, it was filthy, and the people were rude. I continued walking, hoping that t was like Bratislava! The farther you walk, the prettier it gets. But, no. I got to the river and it was the ugliest body of water I have ever seen. Gross.... So, realizing that everyone had been right, I simply walked on. A few miles later, I came to the Roman Wall and some ruins. Cool, but the one in Chester is soooo much better!! Another 10 minutes of walking and I was at the Leaning tower and the Duomo! OK! This is prretty cool! The tower really is something to see and the Duomo was beautiful, although it was run down. So, after capturing the requisite photos anf buying some postcards, I headed back to the train station to go back to Florence! I decided that a well deserved Gelato was in order! So, I found a cheap shop and got a huge waffle cone for 2 Euro. Wayyyyy better than 7 Euro!! I thoroughly enjoyed my yummy gelato as I walked to the train station, ingnoring the ugliness around me. The train ride back to Florence was even more crowded than the first. Arg!! So, an annoying and hot hour later, I tumbled off the train and walked back to the hostel!

I was leaving in the morning and I needed to figure out where I was going! I ran into Eric in the dining room and he told me that Culture week had just started and that it would be going until until 20 May!!! Well, that was all I needed to know! Rome is where I'm off to this morning! 'm going to see all off the museums and festivals and performances I can!!! And, since it is all free, my budget will be bolstered!! Sweeeeeeeet! The Vatican isn't free, but no worries!! I'm probably going to take a tour to skip queues. It's only like 30 - 40 Euros and well worth it in my opinion. The queues in Italy are outrageous! But worth it, ultimately. And, because they only allow a certain number of people in at a time (hence the long queue), it makes it more enjoyable! So, bring a book, your journal, and some water and chill!

Well, I'm off to Roma!! They say all roads lead to Rome.... well, I will let you know!

Pictures!!!

Hey! I added a few pictures to my MySpace profile!! Go to http://www.myspace.com/pipsnyc to check them out! I only added a few from Munich and from Paragliding, but I will try to add some more tonight when I gte back from Pisa!!

Penis, Penis.... Everywhere!!

So, I woke up after 10 am on Sunday, still reeling from the traumas of the previous day! I chatted with the owner of the hostel and found out that I had actually lucked out by coming to Florence early!! I caught the last day of Culture Week and all the museums were FREE!!! So, after checking out the map and listening to her suggestions, I headed out towards l'Accademia to see Michelangelo's David! After waiting for 2 hours in the blazing Italian sun, I finally got in. I walked through the hallway that was filed with Jesus paintings - bloody Jesus, dead Jesus, tortured Jesus. Dear god, it was depressing. The antique musical instrument display was interesting. Then, I rounded the corner. Oh my god! There was David at the end of a long hallway standing magnificently under a glass cupola. Wow! The hallway was full of various pieces by Michelangelo, some finished some not. As I got close to the David, the detail took my breath away! From his hands to his ripped 6 pack, he was perfect! I walked all the around admiring this massive man and in awe at the artistic genius. I came around to the other side and gazed up at his face. The expression that Michelangelo was able to capture was brilliant. It was a look of fearful determination and resolve. The furrow of his brow, his eyes, everything. It was amazing. After going through the lqast bit, I headed out to grab lunch. After a quick bite, I headed towards the Duomo (Santa Maria Cathedral). En route, I ahppened to pass by an open air market. Oh, there was no way I could pass this up!! So, I headed in and spent the next 2 1/2 hours having a blast, haggling away with colorful market vendors! Ohm I got some bargains!! I got my neice and nephew each and embroidered t shirt with with Pinnochio on it and Italia! Very fun! I got a fabulous necklace for myself! It's fun and funky! I then came across a guy selling silver jewellry. I saw a bracelet that I liked and inquired about the price. He said 20 Euros! No way!! I didn?t like it that much and after some haggling , I walked away not even thinking of buying it. He called out ""Ok, 5 euros for you!" I stopped. Hmmmmm.... 5 euros is pretty good! So, I bought it. After I had paid, another vendor came over and asked how much in Italian. The guy answered and the other vendor, completely shocked, said in Italian, "For that American?!?" I was pleased and knew I had gotten a bargain! The last treasure was actually the most difficult to haggle. I wanted to get the kids either a Pinnochio marionette or jumping jack. I finally got them each a cute lttle Pinnochio jumping jack that was made in Italy for 2 Euros each! Yeaaaaa! Now, let me just say that there was tack everywhere!! The most common thing (hee hee) was David's penis!! They had it on EVERYTHING!! That boy really gets around!! I almost bought my mother a penis apron - you know she likes to cook!! But in the end, I did not!! LOL! So, after my successful bargain hunting, I felt that I deserved a Gelati. I was sweaty and gross and the cold ice cream would be wonderful! So, I pop into this little Gelateria and ordered a cone with Bounty Ice cream (chocolate and coconut - mmmmmm!) . I went to the cashier and he said 7 Euros. I nearly choked on the mouthful of coconut deliciousness. I thought about giving it back, but I had already licked it so I just paid with a grimace. Ouch. The cost of enjoying a Gelati in the shadow of the Duomo! It was wonderful though and as I enjoyed my gelati, I wandered around the glorious Cathedral!! It really is amazing!! So, after the Duomo, I headed towards the Uffizi and finished every last bite of that cone! As I approached the Piazza dell Signora, All the sculptures took me by surprise! I knew that they had a replica of David, but I had no idea that they had replicas of all the major sculptures! I took my pictures and, as I was snapping a photo of the fake David, I couldn't help but think aboiut how....fake... the fake was! There is absolutely no comparison and if you skipped seeing the real thing and settled for the fake.... well, you really missed out. If you find yourself here in the future, make damn sure that you spring for the real deal!! It's worth it! I headed over the horrific 2 + hour line for the Uffizi. OK... the Uffizi, while it is an impressive collection of Renaissance art, was not really worth the wait!! Just a bunch of bloody or dead or tortured or mutilated Jesus paintings. Ok.... that's an exaggeration, but I was tired and probably suffering from sun stroke at that point. There is actually some wonderful pieces, but they are very spread out and only 1 or 2 from the major artists.

After buying a phone card and take away dinner, I sat in the Piazza di San Marco and ate my dinner enjoying the Florentine evening! I headed back to the hostel and met some really cool people, including Eric who is a PA for the show 30 Rock with Tina Fey and Alec Baldwin! We talked shop for most of the evening (some interesting info which I will share later when I see you) and then hung out with a bunch of people drinking and having fun! So, my 1st day in Florence was wonderful, despite my rocky introduction to Italy!! Oh, Italian men are certainly aggressive!! I have had so many men tell me that I am beeeeuuutiful and that they luuuuuvvvvee me!! Bella!! Bellisima! Ohh ohhh! Wow! You know I like it!! LOL!

Anyway, today should be interesting! I'm about to head out to Pisa to check out the Leaning Tower! Wooo hooo! I leave tomorrow for a destination yet to be determined! I've had so many suggestions, that can't decide!! Eric and I are going to be in Rome, so we are going to hang out! It's really cool, if random, to run into people you've met on your travels! I love it!! Especially when it's some unexpected place, like a store in Bratislava!!

Well, I'm off! It takes about an hour to get to Pisa, but really the only thing to see is the Duomo and the tower. That's it! So, hopefully, I will be able go to Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the Tuscan sun set over Florence!

Travel Trauma

OK... so, I didn't have the best day on Saturday. I woke up early and caught my train to Venice. It was a gorgeous ride through the Austrian - Italian Alps and I was really looking forward to Venice! I got there around 1 pm and it was hot & muggy - a bit of a shock soming from the mountains!!!! Iwent straight to the TI since I did not have reservations for a place to stay. Uh oh. The TI wasn't overly helpful and it was the first one that did NOT book hostels!!?? They only book hotels! Shit. So, burdened with all of my stuff, I headed out in search of a bed. 2 hours later, soaked with sweat and miserable, I hadn't found a place for less than 150 Euros a night!! Fuck! So, I made the decision to simply walk around Venice and see all the major sights, then head out to Florence. So, for 6 - 7 hours, I lugged all of my shit al aroud Venice, fighting the crowds and desperately trying to stay hydrated! I crossed the Rialto Bridge (several times, actually), went to St. Mark's square and was assaulted by pigeons (yes, I have a picture!!), and got lost in the winding narrow alleyways! That would have been a lot more fun if I did not have my backpack. But oh well!! While wandering, I did find the mask maker who created all of the masks for the film Eyes Wide Shut, which was very cool! Wow! The masks were amazing!! So, once I hit the Grand Canal around 6pm, I decided I would take a Vaporetto back to the train station. So, I waited in line, but the surly clerk demanded exact change - did I have it?? No, I did not. So, I walked. And for a good hour, I was terribly lost. I finally found the train station and hopped on the next train to Florence. I had a 45 minute layovr in Bologne, which was fine! I hadn't eaten all day and I was starving! So, I grabbed a quick bite and headed over to Platform 3 - which is where I was told to go. So, as the minutes pass by, I fight off the homeless italian men and wonder why no one else was there! As the departure time rapidly approached and there was no sign of the train, I went and asked at te office if there was a delay. No, there wasn't. I was on the wrong Platform 3!!! They have like 5 Platform 3s aand no distinction between them!!! Fuck! I missed my train and had to catch the next one. It was a seedy slow local train. I was staning in the corrider looking out over a pitch black Tuscan countryside, when this girl came up to me andsputtered something in Italian. I was so exhausted that I couldn't understand her, so I said (in English) that I don't speak Italian. She laughed right in my face and hurried into her compartment and told her companions about the ridiculous American who said "I speak Italian" to her. No, I said I don't, you hateful little bitch!! I said nothing to hr and simply stewed as the train slowly made it's way to Firenze - Campo Marte. Around midnight, the train finally pulls into the suburban station. It was dark and deserted and immediately I wished I wasn't alone. So, I pulled up my big girl britches, and found the night bus station to go to the Santa Maria Novella station in the center of Florence. The next bus towards my hostel was not for another 40 minutes, so I decided to walk. The nice gentleman at the newstand assured me that it was only a 10-15 minute walk to Via Cavour and showed me on the map. It seemed simple enough, so I headed off. Over an hour of wandering through dark and deserted Florentine streets, I finally found my hostel. I rang the bell and they buzzed me in. Well, the building was devided into 2 section with 2 stairwells, but I was so exhausted that I just did not grasp this! I walked up and down the wrong stairs I don't know how many times. When I got to the lobby for the final time, I broke down and started to cry. Oh god, I was going to have to sleep in the train station spending the night being molested by horny Italian men!!!! Nooooooooo!!! sob sob Fortunately, I saw the little passageway that led to the other stairs and as I rounded the corner, there was a guy getting off the elevator. He told me to go up 1 flight of stairs and the hostel is right there. sob sob Thanks! So, I walked up the stairs and the hostel was right there! Luckily, they had 1 bed left!!! So, at 1:30 am, I checked in and passed out.

So Long, Farewell! Auf Weidersein, Good nigh - ight!

So, my last day in Bad Gastein, Austria was lovely! I had to do laundry, so after I hung it out to dry in the crisp Alpine air, I caught a bus to Bad Hofgastein, the next village over! I wanted to get my pics burned to a disc in preparation for Italy! As I walked from the bus stop towards the center of town, I came across a bridge. I stopped to check out the view and it was AMAZING! Because the town is in the valley at a lower elevation, there is a nice view of the glaciers! Wow! Now that is an incredible sight!! After a bit of contemplation and reflection, I headed into town and dropped off my SD card. For several hours, I wondered around the town simply enjoying being there! I stopped for a quick lunch of Shredded Potato Soup (weird) and as the day the day grew long, I headed a bus back up the mountain! The rest of the evening was spent hanging out and saying goodbyes.

I was sad to be leaving Austria! And the Alps!! I had an amazing time! I really do love the mountains! So, my train leaves early in the morning for Venice! I can't believe that it's my final country before heading back to the UK!!! That's weird!! I've been traveling for 7 weeks already!! Wow.... well, Italy, here I come!!!

Yo - Deh - Leh - Hee - Hoooooooooo

So, I never managed to post a blog yesterday - I was just far too busy aexperiencing amazing new things! What, you ask? Patience, my friend!

So, yesterday morning, I awoke early. The pounding in my head had vanished and I felt ready for the day! I went out on the balcony and it was a lovely, clear day! After getting ready, I headed downstairs and had a very filling breakfast. I asked at the reception desk about paragliding! So, they gave the guy a call. But after an hour of back and forth, he said that if it was a go, it wouldn't be until after 3 pm. It was something to do with the wind? Since I had a good amount of time, I decided to hike down the mountain a bit to the center of town. It was lovely!! The waterfall is absolutely amazing! The town is full of old mountain resorts and tiny shops! They have all of these fountains that spill out fresh "thermal wasser" and you can drink straight from them! I's supposed to have healing properties! But you get the same thing from drinking tap water! Straight from the glaciers! So, after wandering around a bit and hiking some on the emporer's promenade, I had a quick lunch of grillwurstl mit pommes and started my hike back up the mountain! When I got back, I still had a bit of a wait, so I hung out - anxiously awaiting the pilots call! A bit after 3, he called and said that he would pick me up around 4:30!! Oh my god!! I'm going go paragliding over the Alps!!!!! Wow! I was nervous, but very excited. 4:30 came around quickly! Since the chair lifts wouldn't be running until next week, we had to drive up the mountain. Talk about a white knuckle ride!! Louis, the pilot, was taking the hairpin turns going very fast and I could see the valley thousands of feet below!! But I calmed myself down -after all, I was about to leap off of a mountain with the man. I suppoose I can muster enough trust that he knows these mountains and roads like the back of his hand. Yea. So, I was glad when the car finally stopped. But as I got out, I realized that I was literally on a ledge. Oh shit. Admittedly, I was a little afraid. But, the things that you fear the most are generally the most worth doing. So, I embraced my racing heart and the ensuing adrenaline rush! I listened intently as he buckled me in (how is this supposed to hold me???) and gave me instructions. Here's how it goes: Once the wind is just right, you run down the mountain towards the ledge and keep running until you are off. I was very concerned that I would fuck up the running part. So, the adrenaline pumping, he yelled "GO," and off we ran! As the ledge approached, my feet lifted off the ground and we were flying! OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was amazing!!!!! We were flying thousands of feet over the valley!! We kept twisting and turning and he was actually able to take us a bit higher than where we jumped off!! There are no words to describe it!! You simply have to do it!! So, the flight lasted for about 30 minutes, and we came to a landing in a golf course! It was great!! There were people all around watching us fly and waiting for us to land!! We packed up the parachute and headed for the pub. We all had a beer and while the pilots chatted in German, I glowed and reveled in the moment! Yet another beer that I thoroughly enjoyed!!

The rest of the evening was spent hanging out and drinking wine! It was an incredible day and worth every penny!! I can't wait to go again!! WOW!!!

Mountain Mama

The train from Munich to Bad Gastein took about 3 1/2 hours, but oh was it gorgeous. Well, the last hour was. As soon as we passed Salzburg and crossed into the Alps, the scenery was breathtaking! As the train climbed higher into the mountains, I saw more and more chalets nestled among roiling rivers and bright green Alpine meadows! I was so excited! I really do love the mountains! The train tracks were often built right into the side of the mountain!! If I looked out one side, there was nothing but mountain, the dark rock just inches from the window!! If I looked out the other side, there was a vertical drop with the valley well below! It reminded me of those old movies where the steam engine would circle around the paper mache mountain! So, after an hour of gawking out the window, the train pulled into the Bad Gastein train station! As I walked out into the crisp mountain air, The snow capped peaks encircled me! It did not matter which way I turned, or where I looked! They were all around!! Wow! I`m very happy that I chose to spend a few days here! So, I found my hostel without any trouble and checked in!! And yes!! I have a private room with my own shower!! Yeaaaaaaaa! I put my bags in my room and went for a walk. There are tons of great shops and the Thermal baths are right there!! But, it is a sleepy Austrian village, so most were closed. No matter! I will be here for at least a few days!

So, after my invigorating walk, I headed back to the hostel to grab a bite to eat. I ended up spending the entire evening drinking a lot of red wine and some austrian shots of nastiness. Oh they were terrible! Yes... I was very, very, very drunk and did not stumble back to my room until around 1 am. Oh dear....

I woke up at about 7 am this morning to the lovely racket of construction. And my head was throbbing and still spinning. I was still drunk and exhausted from not enough sleep. I don`t like to be drunk. I don`t know how alcoholics do it?!? I dragged my tired ass outside and walked to the store. I needed to buy some water, and since I was still drunk, I apparently needed more Mozart Balls, some kind of strange cookie (?? haven`t tried them yet), and a package of organic Fair trade coffee to take back to the US. Whatever! It amused me at the time. I went back to the hostel just in time for breakfast!

As the day wore on, my headache worsened and all of my plans for the day went right out the window! And it rained for a good portion of the day, so I couldn`t go hiking anyway! Oh! When I woke up this morning and looked out the window, my jaw hit the floor! I have a balcony outside my room with a view of the mountain! I looked out the window and was confronted with clouds!! I am so high up that I could nearly touch the heavy rain clouds!! It was unbelievable!! Even in my stupor, I was amazed and I thoroughly enjoyed watching the clouds slowly dissipate. It almost looked as if the mountains were smoking!! The movement of the clouds gave the mountain life. I imagined the jagged, snow capped peak jutting out above the cloud line!! I love it!! I want to go skinny dipping in a clear Alpine lake after a picnic of weiners and strudl! I want to find a hot Austrian Alpie and have sex on the mountain! It`s very Ron Burgundy of me! Do you have a visual yet? What for it.... yeaaaaa.

Any-hoo.... I`ve had a very relaxing day! Except for the headache. Tomorrow should be fabulous!! I`m planning of walking down the mountain some to the main part of town. I want to explore the village! And, there is a waterfall that runs right through the town!!! Houses and building are built right next to it! The Europeans love to build things in water!! And good for them! It gives me something to take pictures of! Then, time and weather permitting, I`m going to take a hike up the mountain towards the peak! This Swedish guy I met said he would go with me. Hmmmm.... he`s not Austrian, but he could be my Mountain Man and I`ll be his Mountain Mama!! :)I`m going to be here at least 3 nights, and maybe 4! As long as the weather clears, I`m going to go Paragliding over the Austrian Alps!! And it`s a high flight!! How awesome is that??!!?? I may also go rafting, but I`m not sure!! Oh, it`s going to ROCK!!

Well, I`m off to nurse my hangover! I`ll write all about my adventures tomorrow!!

The Bearded Lady

Despite the evening of debauchery and beer, I woke early Monday morning. My day pack is starting to fall apart, so I was on a quest to find a cheap, cool bag to replace it! It`s about time, really. That bag has seen a lot! Anyway, I headed off to the main shopping drag. I stopped in a bunch of the Arab and Asian run shops, but the bags were ghastly. Glitter and sequins and metal accoutrements. Oh no. That won`t do at all. So, I popped into the first department store and found a black slouchy bag that would do, but it was almost 30 Euros. Hmmmm.... I better keep looking. After many unsuccessful visits to a variety of Bavarian bag peddlers, I finally found a cheap black bag that was ok!

With that taken care of, I headed down to the Town Hall with the famous Glockenspiel! I continued walking and enjoying the hustle and bustle of Munich! I eventually wound my way back to the Viktualienmarkt, which is an ancient open air market selling everything from handmade straw puppets to fresh meat and veg! It was fun to wander through! After all that walking and shopping, I was in need of a siesta! Oh wait!! Beer Gardens!! I found my way to one of many beer gardens, got a giant pretzel and a stein of beer, and sat down under a chestnut tree!

With my belly full of beer and sour dough, I headed back to the hostel! I ran into Tania and Krista, and after some deliberation we decided to go to Löwenbräu for dinner and.... oh yea.... more beer! We ran into this guy that Krista knows, so he joined us and we went and found Julianna. After a 15 minute walk, the Löwenbräu Beer Hall loomed ahead! Yeaaaaaa! Weiners and beer! When we get in, the place is packed! When the beer wench finally decided to come over, she spoke no English. And, no.... they did not have a menu in English. So, we all had a laugh trying to figure out what the hell we were ordering! I ordered the Brätwurst mit Kartofelpuree. Poor Julianna! She had absolutely no idea what she ordered. She simply pickjed something and hoped for the best!! So, after our drinks came, the beer wench brought each of us something "special" from the kitchen! Oh my! It was a slice of hell. It was a small square of what appeared to be some strange meat and a colorful assortment of veggies congealed in a gelatin loaf with a dollop of white fluid on to. Wow. My stomach turned, but we all agreed to take one bite. So, after much inspection, I did. And honestly, it didn`t taste all that bad. But I couldn`t get past the gelatin. Ugh! I couldn`t quite place the taste of the meat. Krista said it was probably horse, and I was finished. But I don`t think they eat horse in Germany. That`s more of a French and Italian thing. They eat a lot of horse in Italy. Why?? Anyway, the rest of the meal was great! Julianna had ordered chicken cordon bleu, so she was pleased! We left around 9 and headed back to the hostel.

After Krista left for her date, Tania, _Julianna, and I hung out and had a laugh! Tania had an overnight train to catch, so we walked her to the train station and said our goodbyes! Munich won`t be the same without her! She`s.... dangerous!! Tst tst! (I`ll explain this when I see you all! There are pictures that must be shown!)

Any-hoo.... I headed to bed. All the beer was catching up to me! And unfortunately, of my roommates got piss drunk and forgot his key. So, at around 5 am, he pounded on the door until I drug my exhausted ass out of bed and let him in. Arg!!! I only got another couple of hours of sleep before I was woken up by another roommate who was leaving that morning. Damn it!! So, I just got up. I had to go pay for my room anyway. So, exhausted, I slowly got dressed and headed downstairs. My plan was to go to Neuschewanstein Castle for the day, but when I got to reception, they informed me that the girl had neglected to make the reservation for me and that I couldn`t stay in the room. Oh. Well, I guess I`m leaving then. So, I decided to head to Bad Gastein early! So, since it was time to check out, I had to rush around and pack up all my shit. Since the train wasn`t until 1:30, I stored my bag and headed to Deutche Post. For a nice chunk of change, I shipped my final box back to the States. Feeling much lighter, I decided to grab an early lunch. I tried to find a Falafel shop that had chicken, but all the shops in Munich onlya have veal or lamb! So, I went to McDonald`s. Yea, well it was quick and cheap. Whatever. After I sat down, I looked at the .... person.... sitting at the table across from me. She/he had long gray hair done up in braids and a long gotee, twisted into a point. How very Kung Fu of her/him. I could not for the life of me, figure out if it was a man or a woman!! She/he had breasts and long finger nails, so it`s probably a woman. But that gotee! Oh, she`s the Bearded Lady! Oh my god... she`s a carnie!!! And you know how much they freak me out! I spent my entire meal watching her and trying to figure her out! I never did, though.....

So, after my rather interesting lunch, I rescued my bag from the depths of left luggage storae and headed to the Munich Hauptbanhoff. Wow. It was a zoo! There was some issue with the S-Bahn and a failed electrical thing-a-ma-jigger. But, after a 55 minute delay, I boarded a train heading south. I`m off to Bad Gastein in the Austrian Alps! I can`t wait!!

Oompas and Flaming Nipples

So, Sunday was a very interesting day, full of contrast. After Dachau, my new friends and I decided to head back to Munich and grab a bite to eat, then take the traditional German kuchen. An afternoon coffe with cakes! So, we got back on the S - Bahn and made our way back. We agreed to go to the Agustiner Brauhaus (beer hall), which was great since checking out a beer hall in Bavaria was a high priority! The Brauhaus was interesting! It was like an old cafeteria! I got the Weinerwurst mit Kartofalsalat - sausages with potato salad - and a large beer! It was great! We then walked through Marienplatz and found a cafe that seemed interesting! So, we sat outside and had our coffe and cakes. Well, I got apple strudel with vanilla sauce... I'm being a vanilla whore. By the time we finished, the sun was setting and we were a bit drained from a busy and emotional day. So, we headed back to the hostel. As we reached the corner near the hostel, we were consumed by a rowdy group of British boys in ridiculous costumes! Tania and I made it across the street and we started to chat with the boys! They were there for a Stag party and seemed to be having great fun! One of the boys pulled his trousers and pants down and put a cleaver in his crack! we were laughing so hard! Yes, I had my picture taken with them and we all had a laugh! So, finally, I headed back to the hostel. Krista and I decided it would be great fun to head over to the Hofbrauhaus to see if we could find the boys! Now, the Hofbrauhaus is a big, old beer hall that is still state run! Hitler gave a lot of speeches at the hall. Weird to think that we were drinking in the same place as Hitler.... especially after Dachau. On our way there, we ran into another girl form the hostel, and we asked her to join us! It didn't take any convincing, so our threesome became four!

We got there about 8:45 pm, but there was no sign of the boys. Damn! No matter, the place was bursting at the seems, so we decided to stay! We had trouble finding space, but we finally found a table with only a few old people sitting there. But, as we were about to sit down, these boys called over to us and begged us to sit with them! OK! So, as luck would have it, we found a stag party after all! And, would you believe it, they were British as well! What fun!! But, oh boy, the evening was insane! I have some great pictures, because everyone was grabbing my camera and taking shots! It was fabulous! The boys were pissed beyond rational thought, and one of them started to catch his chest hair on fire! Little flames would dance around his nipples! We just about died! I danced an Oompa dance to a traditional Oompa band with quite a few of the boys! By the time we left, my cheeks were stiff with slober from being kissed - a lot! I can't wait to show everyone the pics!

So, Tania and I decided to decline an extended evening with the boys at a local bar called Boobs and instead, we headed back to the hostel! We laughed all the way back looking at the pictures and swapping tales! It was great! And after Gi-NORMOUS Steins of beer, we were loopy! Good times!

Anyway, I had a great first day in Munich! It was packed full of new experiences and new friends! Wonder what tomorrow will bring in the Beer Capital of the World??!!??

Dachau - Arbeit Macht Frei

I awoke this morning to a chilly morning shadowed by angry clouds, threatening to drown the day. Seemed appropriate, since I was heading to the Dachau Concentration Camp. I headed to the Hauptbanhoff and boarded to S - Bahn 2 headed for Dachau. I stepped off the train and caught the next bus to the memorial site. I met a couple of girls from my hostel on the bus, and chatted with them on the way. As the bus slowed to a stop at the entrance, I looked out the window and couldn't help but notice the how harmless it looked. It was deceptively serene. So we got off the bus, stepped firmly onto the gravel path, and headed to the information container. There was a tour in English at 12 pm, so we agreed to go together. I bought a ticket, as well as a book on the Concentration Camp. Then I headed over to the museum. But first, I had to walk through the main gates of the camp. As I rounded the corner, I saw the building which houses the one and only gate into the camp. As I got closer, the words "Arbeit Macht Frei" became clear in horrendous black iron lettering. As I stepped through the gate, just as hundreds of thousands of victims of the Nazi Final Solution had, tears stung my eyes. I stepped through the gate, knowing the fear and pain, and was overwhelmed by the enormity of the place, both physically and emotionally. I slowly made my way to the museum, attempting to grasp the assault on my mind, body, and soul. I stepped into the museum, which was the former administration and maintainance buildings. Almost everything at Dachau is orginal. People lived and died there under horrifying conditions. Every step I took had been taken before. Everything I touched had been touched by homocidal madmen and their victims alike. Tears fell from my cheeks as I made my way through the history of hatred and evil. Of pain and torture and relilence and heroism. Kindness and compassionate even in the deepest shadow of the darkness of man.

Quietly, I stood at the entrance of the museum and waited as people started to mill about. The guide came along promptly. She was a german volunteer who had been doing the tours for years. In Germany, learning about the Holocaust is an important part of their education, and everyone is required to visit at least 1 of the major camps at least once and report on the experience. Many go to Dachau because it is the first major camp, and the one that set the standard for all the rest. The system of identification and mass murder was created and implemented at Dachau.

The tour began outside the main gate. The gravel walkway is the same pth that the prisoners were forced to walk as they were brought into the camp. She explained the role of Dachau and how it began. She also gave the history of how the village of Dachau was kept in the dark about what was really going on. Of course, near the end with liberation rapidly approaching, they were killing people as quickly as possible and the on site crematorium was not sufficient. So, they burned bodies day and night, and still had to create several mass graves in the surrounding area. After the detailed depiction, we all headed back through the gate and soberly made our way to the camp prison, the most feared building in the camp. This was where some of the most horrific torture took place. It was also where all of the priests were placed. They were forced into tiny cells, or worse, the standing cells. They were beaten, tortured, and often were brutally murdered. Sometimes, the guards simply gave the prisoner a length of rope and left them to kill themselves. If a guard was particularly blood thirsty, then they would tie their hands behind their back, then hang them from a pole for at least an hour. This dislocated the prisoners shoulders and, because they were worth nothing at all if they could not work, they were shot in the back of the neck only after the guards had had their fill. They were shot in the back of the neck because people survive being shot in the head, but not when their cv spine has been severed. Quite a few people, men and women, were crying at this point. I was worried about taking a tour, but my concerns were unwarranted. Everyone was respectful.

After she finished speaking, we went into the camp prison and saw the cells. It was overwhelming. I walked the length of the block, including the priests cells. And exited the other side. As the tour continued, it began to rain lightly. I looked up at the dark sky with a heavy heart. They say that if it rains the day you die that the earth is weeping the loss. As the rain mixed with my tears, it seemed right that it was raining. I didn't bother to put on my rain gear. I simply walked on.

The tour took us into the main barracks, where the prisoners were housed. This is one of only a few reconstructed buildings in the memorial, but the effect was the same. We made our way through the cramped darkened rooms and back out into the afternoon. As we looked down the wide gravel pathway, there were long "boxes" that seemed to go on forever. These were the foundations for all of the living quarters. Oh my god. To think of all those innocent lives. ... and at the end of the path stood large memorials to the various victims of the Third Reich. We walked towards these, and consequently, towards the crematorium and the gas chambers.

After about 10 minutes of a gut wrentching stroll through the dark history, we arrived at a small stream. There was barb wire all around and a small bridge to cross. I had walked into the most horrific part of the memorial. I had arrived at the crematorium and the gas chambers. This entire area was completely original and remained largely unchanged. As I stepped across the threshold, a chill went up my spine. I had stepped into the "Waiting Area." This was where prisoners were to wait for the "showers," which was really the gas chamber. The next room was the "Shower Room." Oh my god. With tears streaming down my face, I looked around the small room in horror. All the original fixtures were still in place. I stepped into the next room, which was the 1st "morgue," where they dragged the bodies after gassing them. It was a dead space. In the middle of the building was the crematorium with 5-6 ovens. They were run day and night in an attempt to keep up with the mounting bodies of their victims. They even forced other prisoners to run the ovens. Then, after approximately 3 months, those prisoners were murdered and replaced with new ones. After walking through the rest of the building, I stepped back out into the dreary May afternoon. There was a slight chill in the air, and I shivered as disgust and horror washed over me. This was the end of the tour, just as the Crematorium and Gas Chambers had been the end for countless innocent people. I milled around the memorials for a few moments, trying to absorb all that I had seen and heard during the previous 3 hours. I caught up with Krista and Tania, and we headed back to the museum for the documentary showing. It was an intense 30 minute show which focused on the Dachau installation and ultimate liberation. Fuck. After the film, we headed back towards the bus. I stepped back through the infamous gate and looked back over the camp. How many people entered this gate, but never came out? I slowly closed the gate and pensively made my way to the bus stop.

I must say that there are no words capable of describing a visit to a Concentration Camp Memorial site. No amount of pictures, films, or books can even remotely prepare you for actually being there. To know that people were tortured, humiliated, and murdered in the most horrific ways right where you stand is overwhelming. It becomes very real and undeniable. What if it had been me, or you? If I had been alive and in Germany during the rise of the Third Reich, I certainly would have been sent to a camp. Many of my friends would have been. Not for being Jewish, but for being an "A-Social," for refusing to bow to the twisted demands of the Nazi regime, or for being homosexuial. For one reason or another, most everyone I know would have found themselves behind a gate facing the words " Arbeit Macht Frei" - Work will set you free.

Prost Wohl!

I'm in Munich, the capital of Bavaria! Land of Lederhosen, Brats, and gi-normous beers!

First, let me start of by filling you in on some interesting happenings! My last meal in Vienna was funny! I went to this restaurant called Mozart Stubl. They offered a Weiner Schnitzel dinner for 5 Euros for backpackers! It was a HUGE plate of food! While I was waiting on my nummies, _an older Austrian man who was sitting in the corner booth began grunting. It became louder and more pronounced as he slurped his soup or goulash or whatever the fuck he was eating. He then started to growl and said "Sehr Gut! Das ist sehr sehr gut!" And continued to grunt and moan his way through his meal. I sunk down in my chair to hide my chuckling! He obviously enjoyed it immensely! Good for him! And I had a laugh .... so, good for me! My dinner was good, but not enough to throw me into orgasmic moans.... unfortunately.

The other interesting, and far less amusing, event happened on the train from Slovakia. I was sitting in my compartment with several other people. Since I bought the ticket, of course it was in 2nd class. So, there were children and people all about. One of those children started to whine. Annoying under the best of circumstances, but after his/her mother picked him/her up, that child burped and threw up in the passageway just outside the compartment door. Fuuuuck! The stench was great. That child vomited 2 - 3 more times, my stomach turning with each subsequent splat. When the child was finished, the woman went about mopping up the awful mess with paper towel. It took several trips. Dear God... thank you for the travel size Oust Spray and train windows that open!! It was oh so special!

Anyway, I took a very early train this morning and left Vienna in a haze of drizzle. I arrived at Munich around 12:30 and went to the hostel. I couldn't get into my room until after 2 pm, so I put my main pack in the storage room and went in search of sustainance. I got a quick bite to eat and then popped into what looked like a supermarket. It was actually a discount store, kind of like the stale store! Hooray! After getting a few necessary items, I headed back to the hostel to put my bags in the room. I pulled a bunch of shit out of my backpack and headed to Deutche Post. I'll be sending one more box back to the States. Wow, my last one! Maybe... Anyway, I got to the post office and the line was horrific. Saturday afternoon. Yikes! Well, I assumed they closed at 5, but after waiting in line for about 40 minutes, the german boy behind the counter informed me that they closed at 4 pm. So, I got the box and took everything back to the hostel. It's all good! I'll just wait a few days and throw in whatever I may accumulate hear in Munich! My pack will be super light for the next 5 weeks. Well, we will see how long that lasts!

The rest of the evening was spend chatting with a bunch of fun people! It was a very interesting night! Saturday night in Munchen is amusing to say the least! Everyone was drunk on Bavarian wheat beer and running amuck! Wow! I was outside smoking, and this cab driver stopped in the middle of the road, turned around, and pulled up on the sidewalk next me. He informed me that he was Jamaican and loved big woman. So, I lied and said my boyfriend was inside, hopnig that he would go away. But he persisted and said that it didn't matter! A boyfriend doesn't mean married and that I should accompany him to a Reggae concert later in the evening. Oy vey. But it was funny! When I came back in, I was confronted with a very drunk Irish boy who asked me if I knew where his luggage was! Then his room. Laughing, I asked if he was ok and, in incrediably slurred disjointed speech, he said,"I'm Irish. I'm fine." I met a bunch of characters last nights! Boys in Kilts, an Aussie Actress, and a Good Ole Corn Fed American Boy. Despite the hullaballoo, I did manage to get to bed before 1 am. I was exhausted!

So, today is Sunday and it is truly a day of rest in Europe. Nothing is open! I've come to accept this after 6 weeks and plan accordingly. So, I bought picnic supplies yesterday and I will be going out to Dachau Concentration camp in a little while. I was going to take a tour, but decided that it was something I needed to do on my own. So, that's what I'm doing. Dachau was the first camp and the model for all others.... including Auschwitz. Munich was the seat of Hitler's regime and there is still a bunch of his shit around. Anyway, I'll write a seperate post specifically for Dachau. I'm off.....

Back in the USSR

I'm in Bratislava, Slovakia! Wow! Talk about a different world! In case reading Bratislava has invoked graphic images from the film "Hostel," worry no more! While the bulk of the city is very Eastern Bloc, the Old Town is gorgeous and it is kind of like Prague, only grittier and less touristy! There are hardly any Americans running about! And, thus far, I have yet to run into any wealthy homicidal psychopaths looking to torture and disembowel an innocent young lass in the comfort of an abandoned warehouse! Well, not many. And if you immediately were reminded of the film "Eurotrip," well, I hate to disappoint you, but the exchange rate is not that great! Spending a nickel here will not dramatically alter the Slovack way of life! $1 USD buys you 25 Slovakian Krowns (Sk). A pack of Marlboro 100's costs 60 Sk, a McDonald's cheeseburger costs 25 Kc, and an ice cream cone with 3 scoops costs 30 Kc. So, you can see where my devotion lies. LOL! That"s approximately $2.40, $1, and $1.10 respectively.

So, the train ride from Vienna was interesting! I met an interesting older Slovakian woman. She did not speak any English, but somehow, I was able to understand her??!!?? She was rapidly speaking a mixture of Slovack and German, and maybe something else as well! She told me all about her family. I learned that her son had married a Czech woman and they moved to Africa. She told me about her grandchildren and her bible and how important it is to her. I honestly have no idea how I was able to understand all of that. Interesting. And she fascinated me. To think of all that she has seen. She was at least 70. I hope she made it home ok. Her bags were very heavy.

Anyway, just over an hour after leaving Vienna, I found myself in a completely different world. Still thinking of the old woman, I made my way outside to smoke a cigarette and get my bearings before changing money and visiting the Tourist Info office. When I stepped out of the train station, I stepped into another world! I speak no Slovack and it was very... industrial. Very Eastern European. Briefly, I questioned my decision to visit. But, I finished my ciggie and headed back in. I found the TI and thankfully, the woman spoke english. She ran down a laundry list of safety precautions (oh, fuck), gave me a map, and wished me a lovely day. Hmmmm... I went to the ATM and tried to pull out a few hundred crowns. I wasn't planning on spending much. Unfortunately, with an American card, there is a minimum of 1000 Kc. Damn. So, I got my $40 worth of Slovakian money and headed out to discover Bratislava.

After dodging thieves and mad homeless Slovacks, I was headed in the right direction. After about 10 minutes, I found myself standing in front of the Presidential Palace. It was nice. The guards were funny! I looked around, and it still seemed like a city to me. Lots of severe lines and uniformity. Characteristic of former communist rule. But, after another 5-10 minutes of walking, I found the Old Town. The requisite Castle on a hill loomed above the city center. It was nice, but rather plain - for a castle. The Old Town is lovely and I can understand why they recommended it! I walked around for awhile, then stopped to get some lunch. I spend the next few hours wandering the narrow cobblestone streets and enjoying the contrast between the old and new! Just like Prague, they have all these hidden alleys and passageways that make it fun to get lost! I stumbled across this big tent with tons of A/V equipment all around. What could it be, you ask? Well, I wondered the same thing! So, I walked around to the front and it was an Avon tent??!! They were gearing up for some big promotional event! So, I made my way back over later in the day! Oh my!! They were blasting 80's music and peddling Avon! I had a flashback to my formative years!! they even wear socks with dress shoes and sandals! Oy vey! The 80's are alive and well! George Michaels is even performing - live! That's, like, totally awesome! He's such a babe! Oh dear - I'm getting old.

But after 5+ hours of hard walking on rough roads, I am tired and my feet are killing me! So, I decided to pop into an Internet cafe and update my blog! I leave for Munich in the morning, and I'm hoping to catch an early train. That way I won"t have to transfer. How lazy is that?! But my pack is heavy and I'm tired. 5 weeks of hard travel is definitely starting to wear on me! I love it, though! But my next adventure will only be 4-6 weeks long. Unless I can afford to stay in single rooms with my own bathroom! And what is the likelihood of that? But the next few weeks should be great! I've decided to spend 5 nights in Munich and do day trips to Fussen (for Neuschwanstein Castle - the "Disney" castle), Rothenburg, Dachau Concentration Camp, and at least one other Romantic Road village! Then, I'm off to Bad Gastein in the Austrian Alps for a few days of rest before heading to Italy. Believe it or not, Italy is the end of my continental travel! After Rome, I head back up to London where I will do a bit more of the UK before heading back to the US!! Hmmmm... that's kind of sad! I love Europe and I am having a blast. Man, Reality Bites! :)

Any-hoo... I am off to find some dinner before heading back to Vienna! My next post will be from the Southern Bavarian city of Munich! I love Lederhosen!!